By CHARLOTTE PERKINS HHJ Lifestyle Editor Ladda Thai is a small restaurant, tucked away in a strip mall at 1746 Watson Blvd. You may have to hunt for it, but it’s worth the hunt. I know because I went there and tried some dishes that were totally new (to me) and very good. I’ll be going back. Tom Sarrtsud welcomed me to his restaurant, and was ready to sit down and talk about a cuisine I was only slightly familiar with. He could be the ambassador for Thailand when it comes to promoting the food of his native land. Tom and his wife Laddavan were born and grew up in Bangkok and take pride in their country’s famous cuisine, but they’re also working hard to achieve their own version of the American dream. Their three children were born in this country, and the family lived for ten years in New York City, where Tom worked as a chef, cooking all kinds of Amerian food, before they took a chance on offering authentic Thai food in Warner Robins. They’ve been in business here for three years now, building a loyal following that includes military personnel who have spent time in Thailand and already know why this small Eastern country (once known as Siam) is known world wide for its food. Tom Sarrtsud says that Thai food is “unique, herbal, healthy and delicious.” “Thai people,” he adds, “are known for our love of spices and hot peppers, but we cater to our customer’s wishes.” Because each dish is made fresh with fresh ingredients, after the customer orders, the servings can be completely pepper-free or super-spicy, depending on the customer’s preference, and there are some familiar American dishes on the menu for those in a group who are too timid to try something like the notable “Number 26,” Pad-Bai-K-Prow Chicken, which is stir fried with garlic, chili pepper and basil. I had the “medium spicy” Number 26 which was very spicy indeed by Middle Georgia terms. . This basil-based dish (you can also get it made with beef) was wonderful, with a slight hot pepper aftershock to the tastebuds. I liked it, but keep in mind that “medium” at Ladda Thai, is more or less like “sizzling” somewhere else. I don’t think I’d dare go up a notch on the pepper scale. The heat was nicely offset by a generous helping of jasmine rice, which the Sarrtsuds import from Thailand. A word on the rice: The rice at Ladda Thai isn’t just something to put the spicy stuff on. It’s a treat all by itself. I tried both the jasmine rice (which is possibly the best rice I’ve ever eaten, and actually has a flavor of its own!) and also the “Sticky rice” which is traditionally held in the hands and used to scoop up sauces. It’s a slightly sweet rice that really is sticky and unlike any rice I’ve ever tasted. Again, I tried it and I liked it. The menu is varied, offering quite a lot of choices for a small restaurant: Tom-yum-Koog, a spicy shrimp soup with lemongrass and lime juice, Satay chicken, a famous dish made with grilled chicken and a Thai peanut sauce, spring rolls, which are a smaller, crisper version of egg rolls, a wide variety of salads made with fresh local vegetables and a variety of Thai noodles, curry and stir-dishes. Thai cooking includes many elements of Chinese cooking, but the range of flavors is entirely different, with lots of garlic, lime juice, ginger, scallions and lemongrass, along with the famous hot peppers. Vegetarians will be in heaven with the high-protein, no-meat dishes that include tofu. Tom enjoys explaining the dishes, and takes pride in being able to adapt to different customer requirements. Finally, there’s a dessert that’s worth going to Ladda Thai for all by itself. That’s Tom’s special Fried Ice Cream. In a word, it’s unbelievable. Pie-shaped wedges of vanilla ice cream are dipped into a thin batter and fried quickly without melting inside. This forms a crisp crust. The slices are served with a syrup made of boiled-down fresh strawberries, sugar and cinnamon. The contrast of flavors and textures is out of this world. Try it. You’ll love it. Lunch is from 11 to 2, and dinner from 5-9 Mondays through Saturdays. You can order take-out or you can eat in a restaurant charmingly decorated Thai- style. No reservations are necessary. There’s Thai beer on the menu. Call Tom Sarrtsud at 329-1200 for information or directions.